The way commercial fishermen freeze salmon these days is nothing short of a miracle. If I put 2 cooked fillets in front of you, one that was fresh and one that was frozen, I’d bet you’d have a hard time telling which was which! There is absolutely no crime in buying frozen fish, especially when it’s so convenient to have in the freezer (defrost in a bowl of cool water in about 30 minutes; replenish the cool water every 10 minutes). So good for you, and such a great value.

Ingredients
11⁄2 tablespoons coriander seeds
11⁄2 tablespoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 salmon fillets (6 ounces each, 1″–11⁄2″ thick)
1 teaspoon canola oil

Make the coriander rub. Toast the coriander, cumin, and peppercorns in a skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the fennel seeds and continue to toast until fragrant and the cumin seeds brown, an additional 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the spices to a rimmed sheet pan or plate to cool, and then place in a coffee grinder along with the sugar and salt and pulverize it to a fine powder. Transfer 2 tablespoons to a wide, shallow dish. (The rest can be stored in an airtight container or jar placed in a cool, dark spot for up to 1 month.)

Prep the salmon. Place the salmon on your work surface and feel for pinbones, using tweezers to remove any you find. Holding the salmon on the skin side, press the top into the spiced sugar, making sure the top is evenly coated, then set it on a large plate. Repeat with the remaining fillets, and then cover the plate with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or preferably overnight.

Roast the salmon. Adjust 1 oven rack to the upper position and 1 to the middle position. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and lightly grease the foil with the oil. Place the salmon skin-side down on the foil and roast on the middle rack until the fillets are cooked on the outside but still quite pink in the middle, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn the broiler on, move the salmon to the top rack, and broil until the sugar just starts to bubble, 1 to 2 minutes (watch your salmon carefully, as broiler intensity varies and the sugar can quickly burn). Remove from the oven and transfer the salmon (with or without the skin) to individual plates. Serve immediately.

D2D
There’s a lot to be said for slowing down and being friendly with your butcher or fish counter person. let them know what you like to cook and eat. once they start recognizing you as a regular, they’ll be happy to let you know when good products come in at good values.

D2D
Many fishermen sell their daily catch at remarkable savings. On weekends, make a trip to wherever fishermen hang out—a seaside pier or lakefront dock—to score the freshest fish at the best prices. Make sure they have gutted and scaled the fish if possible, unless you simply love those tasks yourself!

Everyone should be eating tilapia. It’s almost impossible to overcook, it’s mild, lean, has a nice texture between flakey and steaky, and is great for oven-baking, pan-frying, and steaming. Plus, domestic tilapia is farmed using environmentally sound practices. Did I mention it’s inexpensive, too? Why wouldn’t you try this wonderful white fish?

Ingredients
3 cups homemade garden vegetable sauce or jarred salsa
11⁄2 pounds tilapia (defrosted if frozen), halved lengthwise to yield 6 fillets
Salt
Juice of 1 orange
Finely chopped fresh basil, chives, cilantro, or parsley for serving (optional)

Season the fish. Heat the oven to 375°F. Spread six 12″-square pieces of foil across your work surface. Spoon 1⁄2 cup of sauce just off the center of each square and top with a tilapia fillet. Sprinkle each fillet with a little salt and 2 teaspoons of orange juice.

Fold the packets and bake. Fold the foil over the fish fillet and roll and crimp the edges to seal. Repeat with the remaining fillets. Place the packets on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and cut a slit in the top of each pouch to let some of the steam escape (be careful!). Cut or tear open the side of the packet and slide the fish and sauce out. Sprinkle with herbs (if using) and serve hot.

Cook Smart
If your market doesn’t have tilapia, this recipe works just as well with salmon, snapper, flounder, and even halibut.